Coming to Nepal was already an adventure! After we sold our car in New Zealand three hours before our flight (oh my gosh…i dont want to remember this day),we took the longest flight ever to Dubai (14 hours ). Beeing a backpacker means you can not always afford a hotel, so you just sleep like a homeless on some random seats. Thats why we decided to sleep at the airport as our connection flight was on the next day. According to Mella this wasnt a good idea at all. Horrible things must have happend while i was asleep, which involves babys vomiting next or actually on Mella and some rude bahaving people doing disgusting things next to our “sleeping camp” while boarding an airplane. Well, i dont really know what was going on, but i never forget the pale face of Mella saying to me ” you just have no idea what f*** happened” when i woke up in the middle of the night. You must have seen her eyes… . 🙂
Finally we found ourselves at tiny Kathmandu Airport. After paying the visa fee (60$) we got picked up by our hostel (the happily ever after hostel 5$/night). Way to expensive, a taxi would have been the half price (500R). We stayed at Thamel, where probably every tourist ends up. Kathmandu is super dusty, the streets are in bad conditions and the whole city looks like it is under construction for ages. Nevertheless i fell already in love with this country. I liked the flair, the coulorful shops, the bustling streets and i really liked the hostel we stayed at: Fire&Flies (4$/night).
All the people always smiling and wishing you a great day,something you dont find everywhere. After our friend Flo arrived from Germany it was all about getting prepared for the Everest Base Camp Trek. Flo was organizing a lot for our stay in Nepal and we are very thankful for that. In the first days we manage to hire a Tourguide and a Sherpa, buy/rent hiking gear and get mentally prepared for this adventure. There are many cheap gear you can buy in Thamel like jackets, pants, gloves….but i highly recommend not to buy hikingboots AND socks. Mella bought some fake hikingboots and after 2 days she brought them back, they were just very bad. The three of us bought fake North Face Hiking socks and we all ended up having really smelly feet on the trek. 🙂 Good sleepingbags (-20 degrees) you can rent in some shops!
Our tourguide Jag and NJ were so kind to take care of us before the trek even started. We were lucky to join them on a holy festival called Sariswati. They took us in the evening to the Pashupati Temple (Pashupatinath Tempel), where thousands of people were waiting to enter the holy place. On the way we were able to see cremations along the riverside, which was a very interesting but also disturbing experience. We entered the temple, which was very crowded. People were singing, meditating and praying. Holy people “Babas” where around and everybody tried to get a foto with them. I have to admitt i also own a few hundred but only because i was kind of forced to stay next to a very special Baba while NJ proudly took millions of fotos. Some of the “babas” were selling Marihuana for spiritual purpose, which is consumed by many people in this temple on this particular day. The celebration was going on the whole night. It was a very unique experience for us.
On day 5, fully equiped and prepared, we took the cab to the airport.We supposed to fly to the most dangerous airport in the world “Lukla” and start our 16 days hiking tour to the Everest Base Camp, cross the Chola Pass and walk back to Lukla through Gokyo.
Bad luck for us, on this day we didnt fly to Lukla due bad weather. The airplanes are only landing by clear sight. After waiting for 5 hours we were send back to the hostel, next day new try. Unfortunately the weather was still bad and all the flights got cancelled again.
We had to make a decision, loose one more day or fly with a helicopter. Of course it is expensive but we met 2 other hikers and split the costs which was actually a good price. We also got our money back for the cancelled flights. We took the helicopter (420€).
Apart from the tourguides it was the first helilift for all of us. We were super excited and took as many selfies and videos as possible during the 45 minutes flight. We must have looked rediculous, especially mella focused on filming the poor pilot all the time 😉
In Lukla we met our Sherpa who was carrying our common backpack which we filled with extra food and sleepingbags. I insisted to carry our own backpacks and equipment as it is a part of the adventure. It was already very cold in Lukla and it suppose to be much colder the next days. The official hiking season starts in March so we were still trekking during off season. As i got ill i will only describe the 7 days of our trekking:
The 1.first day we hiked only 3 hours and reached our first teahouse. It was cold and we all got together in front of the fireplace. Who would know that this was one of our warmest nights by that time.
The 2.day we woke up very early. The target was hiking (mostly uphill) 7 hours to reach Namche Bazar, a beautiful village surrounded by the highest mountains in the world. On this day we passed one of the most beautiful swingbridges ever. The day was sunny, but once the sun is behind a mountain it gets super cold.
Day 3 was our acclimatisation day. We did a 5 hours hike with a descent elevation to a viewpoint (thats the birthplace of the “famous” himalaya dance video) and to a close small village where Edmund Hillary onced build a school and back to Namche Bazar where we stayed overnight. Here we had our only one hot shower during the whole trek.Last teahouse with running water aswell!
Day 4 we hiked 5-6 hours to a tiny village which seemed only to consist of three guesthuoses and a monastery. The teahouse we stayed at was in front of the monastery. Each day it was getting colder and colder. It was already so cold that the waterbottles got frozen during daytime. In the afternoon we visited the monastery and had the chance to watch the monks praying. At this point i was already not changing clothes for bedtime because this would be the same as commit suicide.
Day 5 we walked 5 hours to Tingboche where we had a fantastic view on the famous Island Peak. We stayed at a nice and friendly teahouse where we meet the germans who shared the helicopter with us. We decided to buy a bucket hot water to shower and wash some clothes…bad idea as the clothes got totally frozen after a few minutes outside.
Day 6 we had our acclimatisation day. We hiked up to a viewpont at an altitude of 4700 meters. The view was just stunning. All this peaks appear to be unreal und you feel so small being surrounded by all the high mountains. We stayed the night at the same teahouse and spend the evening in front of the fireplace like every night.
Last day we hiked up 3 hours to a teahouse at an altitude of 4620 meters, on this day we supposed to reach Lombuche.
Even after this trip brought me to the hospital (where i actually spend the first night since almost 7 months alone) it was one of best things which happened to me. The nature was so stunning, i always felt attracted to the mountains but around the Everest i thought i can stay forever. Even the hikes were exhausting i felt every day good and balanced.It was one of the toughest things i have done so far. We saw many different birds as Jag turned out to be a professional bird watcher. We met interesting people on our way and we spend our evenings sharing funny stories. No television, radio or cellphones, just great company, blue rivers, endless mountains and clear skies.
I he i can come back one day to finish the trek ❤